Thursday, September 25, 2008

A little more Cappadocia

Greetings! As I write I am now in the city of Kaş and far from the Anatolian region that contains the gem that is Cappadocia . However I would like to add a few more pictures from that experience. Keeping a blog while on the move in a new country takes determination, I am finding! I've met at least one traveller who hasn't posted to his blog since July 30th... but I will do my best not to go that long!


Looking out from the rock monastery at Selime
The 'Star Wars' formations, also from Selime


Pigeon Valley, with a view of Uchısar to the left, which is above Goreme. I hiked down this valley with a couple of adventurous New Yorkers. I think this place ıs Pigeon Heaven... locals encourage the birds to roost in caves of the valley, then collect the guano to use as fertilızer and also a kind of paste for the base layer of murals.



Mt Hasan, whose eruptions once carved the Ilhara Valley, pictured in my last post


Oh yeah! I rented a scooter... and it was FUN! Never mind that I was the only one out wearing a helmet- the locals are much more daring. Its OK, I can take a few stares...


Views from the ride. Sometimes I just cant quite believe Im doing what Im doing- and that scootsıe ride was one of those times. It was surreal to be whızzing along a landscape that might as well be mars on a 90 cc 'popcorn' scooter, as it was called. I remember so clearly being a child and wishing like heck that I could have my own motorscooter... and as I rode around Cappadocia I still felt lıke I must be breaking some kind of parental rule! Sometimes it is good to grow up, at least on the outside.
I rode to the nearby town of Uchisar. This is where I encountered one of my most memorable moments thus far in my trip: While buzzing down a windy cobblestone street, I looked ahead to see a small mosque on the corner about a block and a half in front of me. At just that moment a large crowd emerged from the mosque with men carrying a casket on their shoulders. I ımmediately killed the engine and came to a stop, not wanting to disturb the procession as the body was loaded into a large van. As I looked at my map while waiting for things to clear up, I heard a woman's voice calling from a nearby doorway. İ looked up as a kindly woman approached me. She was dressed in the headscarf and ornately-patterned dress that is typical for this area; Turks are of course a Muslim people, and nearly all women in this area follow the more traditional code of dress (as compared to the more liberal Istanbul). She asked if I was lost and whether I needed help, with very good English I might add. I pointed and replıed that I was just waiting for the funeral to take ıts course. Then we got to talking.
I love architecture and she informed me that her building, which is now an upscale bar with very fine wine, was built by the Greeks 250 years ago. She invited me in and we spent the next hour having a simply wonderful conversation. She served me Turkish tea (and wouldn't let me pay) as we discussed everything from local culture to the fabulous American Blues that were singing through the arched stone structure. She plays Latin music in the morning, Blues in the afternoon, and Jazz at night... how great to come across the world and hear John Lee Hooker while sipping tea in Turkey's Cappadocia!
Moments like these are the best. Despite all our apparent cultural and geographic differences, I very strongly feel that Emine (the owner's name) and I connected simply as human beings. And the music helped, of course! It hit me just then how very similar we all are- us humans. For all the media hype and violent imagery and misunderstanding... we are still people first. And if you dont believe me, I now know a great little spot in Ugrup where you can find out. Emine's place is called "Ailanpa" Cafe and Wine House Tel 0 384 341 69 72 and if you ever find yourself in Cappadocia I highly reccomend you look it up!

Thats the place on the right side of the street.
More Cappadocia


My Hostel, in Turkey often called "Pensions". These usually less expensive than hotels, and you share a room or dorm with other travellers. Hostel culture is very laid back and pensions are a great place to meet other folks on the road. And people are going everywhere... so making friends not only fulfills the need for company but also for relevant and important information. Chances are somebody has recently been where you're hoping to go, and can offer up a few bits of wisdom.
New friends... that's James on the left, he's from Ireland, and then two American girls from New York circling the globe in 4 months. If you're feeling nervous about getting out and going somewhere, Im finding that there's no better inspiration than meeting people who have been on the road for months and plan to be out for many more. Yesterday in Olympos I met and Ozzie who was halfway thru his world tour... and he'd been gone 6 months!
The famous kebab stand. Rare in the US, but a staple in Turkey... and also common in Australia and parts of Europe.
I just thought this rock looked like a monster with all the lights... ;)

1 comment:

Chris said...

Joe, What an incredible journey. Star Wars meets John Lee Hooker in a 250 year old wine bar with great views. Where do I sign up? Thanks for sharing on the posts
- Chris