The Lycian Way is an ancient travel route originally created by the culture for whom it is named. Solid information about the trail is hard to come by but I believe it was a popular ancient route for trade, transport, and travel in Southwestern Turkey. The Belgians and I decided to hike a three-day section of the route, trekking each day between coastal villages amid the mountains. This stretch has been rated among the top 15 walks in the world by some publications... and looking back I can understand why. Hopefully my pictures can convey a sense of this amazing stretch of coastline.
After kayaking in Kas we caught a bus to the town of Esen, about 2 hours north and a bit inland. From here we planned to take a taxi to the beginning point of our hike, a tiny village named Alinca, 15 or 20 kilometers further into the mountains. OK, I thought, no problem... we get to Esen, hire a taxi, get to our hostel. Easy, right? Well, not exactly.
We did get to Esen by bus, but being late in the day darkness was already upon us. As we walked about a mile from the highway into town, sparse but heavy raindrops threatened to soak our gear. We quickly realized that Esen was a very small town... with no official taxi in sight. What we did find were groups of locals -all men (it seems quite uncommon for women to congregate in public in small towns)- hanging out after work, shooting the breeze in bars and local shops. And every one seemed willing to become a "taxi" for three obviously out-of-town travellers. And expensive ones at that! What ensued was nearly an hour-long wander down the single main street, asking in limited Turkish for a "taksi" to Alinca.
I will admit to being quite scared at this point: strange town, lots of strangers, not exactly friendly, getting late, unsure whether we will actually get to our destination. The one true taxi we found was selling baklava out of the back hatch and wouldn't take us. It was at this point that I really began to appreciate the Belgians. While I was worried sick, they smoothly handled the locals- bartering for prices, demanding to see vehicles, asking who would be driving... they were confident and in control. After travels in both Thailand and Mexico, these guys knew what to do. And thank god for that! In the end, they found us a good price and a safe driver to take us up the mountain. That night was a lesson for me in the art and necessity of good bargaining skills. When you're scared, just fake like you know what you're doing.
Arriving in Alinca well after dark, we had no idea what the surrounding countryside would look like the next morning. Our "taxi" wound up and up a narrow mountain road, and cooler air at the top suggested a significant gain in altitude. After a delicious meal amidst what seemed to be the entire population of the village (the property on which our hostel was located seemed the central gathering spot), we were fast to sleep.
The next morning, here was our view:
The main house and dining area
Our room, three mats on the floor of the cabin on the right. Comfy and rainproof!
Thus began our hike! That morning we crossed a high ridge through pines and grazing goats before beginning to descend into a spectacular valley framed by high cliffs dropping precipitously to the blue, blue sea...
Despite our heavy loads, morale was hardly a problem. With a beach like that at the end of the trail, who could complain?!
PJ, packs in front and back
High cliffs; very impressive. In a way, reminiscent of Yosemite
Our Crew (below), taking a break. On numerous occasions, we've been taken for either (a) brothers or (b) Israelis. What do you think?!
Finally, the beach!
Bathtub-warm water, so salty its almost impossible to sink.
PJ sings and plays guitar, Karel is a bassist, and I play drums... when I get to Belgium we've got a band.
Our first night was spent in the village of Kabak. There are no roads in the valley, so its walk-ins only. They do, however, have a tractor that pulls visitors down from a main road.
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